By Greg Gonzales
Care for a top-shelf Manhattan with rose hip, or perhaps a combination of mushrooms, wasabi and seaweed? Mixologists and home bartenders alike are taking those twists on classics as they get more comfortable going beyond the basic aromatics and citrus bitters.
Consumers and chefs are also taking bitters off the bar and into their kitchens. There are bitters for savory meat dishes, juices, baked goods, soda, sparkling wines ― anything that’s possible with an extract.
According to Genevieve Brazelton, Founder and Chief Executive Officer of Improper Goods, bitters are just at the beginning, and there’s room to explore. Her Bitter Housewife Cardamom bitters won sofi gold and product of the year awards in 2018, along with a Good Food Award. Bitter Housewife also offers Orange, Grapefruit, Lime Coriander, Old-Fashioned Aromatic and Barrel-Aged Aromatic flavors, using American non-GMO whiskey with all citrus peeled in-house. They come in 3.4-ounce flasks at a $16 suggested retail price, or $18 for barrel-aged.
Erik Kozlik, CEO of Modern Bar Cart, calls bitters “liquid poetry,” and says the only thing that stands between a consumer and great cocktails is knowledge and confidence. He hosts a podcast to help with those. His Embitterment Bitters brand features flavors inspired by places, including Japanese Bitters flavored with wasabi, seaweed, tea and mushrooms, and curry bitters flavored with turmeric, saffron and fenugreek. These bitters, part of the Heritage Collection, will be launching in a variety pack this month for a suggested retail price of $24.99, and $19.99 for single 4-ounce bottles.
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For Chris Udouj and Jamie Vitlina, co-Founders of 11th Orchard Bitters, the rise of bitters has been an opportunity to add hyper-local flavors to cocktails. They forage every month for their ingredients to make flavors like White Pine, Spicy Rosehip, Birch Bark and the Good Food Award finalist Red Clover, all indigenous to the Chicago, Illinois, area. They don’t add any preservatives, oils or sweeteners. The bitters come in 4-ounce bottles for a suggested retail price of $18, 0.5-ounce minis for $8 and gift packs for $35.
Bitter Love’s four female Founders took bitters a little somewhere different, making them into a shelf-stable, ready-to-drink form. Their products are made with bitter herbs like ashwagandha, gentian root, artichoke and wormwood, along with sparkling water and a dash of fruit juice. Bitter Love is a low-sugar alternative to soda or a tart cocktail mixer, with only 40 calories. Flavors include Tart Cherry, Toasted Pineapple and Grapefruit, all in 12-ounce bottles.
Fee Brothers isn’t a new brand ― it’s been around since the 1800s ― but it’s been getting creative with bitters flavors as well. It offers flavors like Celery, Rhubarb and West Indian Orange, available in 4-ounce and 5-ounce bottles. The company also offers Molasses Bitters, made with blackstrap, the darkest molasses left from sugar cane extraction, combined with nutmeg and coffee.
At The Bitter End, attention to detail is what makes good bitters, with no extracts, flavorings or preservatives. The company offers Mexican Mole Bitters inspired by the traditional mole poblano, blending cocoa, sesame, allspice, oregano and cinnamon with a cayenne kick, perfect for dark spirits, tequila, cognac, bringing complexity to winter and fall cocktails. Other flavors include Thai, Jamaican, Memphis and Moroccan, all of which come in a 2-ounce bottle for a suggested retail price of $20.