Delivering a World of Gastronomic Traditions to the American Market
By Lorrie Baumann
Specialty food producers are reaching back into ancient culinary tradition to elevate the ingredients of home cooking into haute cuisine. For example, the pimento cheese that’s a food tradition spreading across the country from the American South has three essential ingredients: shredded cheese, mayonnaise and pimento peppers, all stirred together to form a satisfyingly flavorful spread for a sandwich or a party appetizer. Like a lot of authentic Southern cooking, it’s a mixture of flavor and affordability – goooood on a budget. Not necessarily fancy, not usually thought of as “gourmet,” but, in the hands of a talented cook, goooood.
Red Clay Gourmet aims to elevate the traditional pimento cheese by making it both goooood and gourmet, and Founders Lance and Michele Sawyer were at the Winter Fancy Food Show to spread the goodness. Their Gourmet Pimento Cheese is available in five flavors that expand the definition of pimento cheese with flavors that stretch the traditional boundaries without challenging the spirit of adding zesty flavor to cheese, making it spreadable and keeping it Southern. Their Flame Roasted Jalapeño flavor is an example, although they have four other flavors: Classic Sharp Cheddar, Hickory Smoke Cheddar, Goat Cheese & Sun-Dried Tomato and South Meets East – Sriracha. For the Flame Roasted Jalapeño flavor, they roast the jalapeños in house to smooth out their flavor and then mix them into shredded cheddar and smoked Gouda cheese, which adds just a hint of smokiness without heading too far over into chipotle territory, and just enough mayonnaise to make it spreadable. The jalapeno is thoroughly blended into the mixture, so that its flavor is consistent through the spread, the cheese is high-quality and the mayonnaise is a product that’s custom-made for Red Clay Gourmet to ensure that it’s made with cage-free eggs and that it’s non-GMO.
The Sawyers package their Red Clay Gourmet Pimento Cheese spreads into a 10-ounce square container and a 5-pound foodservice container as well as a new single-serve snack package that includes 1.25 ounce of cheese spread plus crackers. They’re producing it themselves in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, and they’re both actively involved in the day-to-day production.
Emmi Roth brought an altogether other kind of cheesy tradition to the show with its Tete de Moine, a cheese first made in the 12th century by tonsured monks at the monastery of Bellelay in Switzerland. For a time, the tangy semi-hard cheese made from fresh cow milk was used by tenant farmers to pay the owners of their land, but today it’s being made in 2-pound cylinders in the mountainous area of Jura and exported into the American market by Emmi. It’s properly served from a girolle, in which a sharp blade rotates around a spindle inserted into the cheese to shave off frilly curls that dress up a cheese board. “Tete de Moine” translates to monk’s head, and it’s most likely a reference to this practice of serving the cheese by shaving off the top of its head, just as the monks were once introduced into their order by having the tops of their heads shaved.
Emmi Roth’s Tete de Moine is an AOP cheese made of 100 percent cow milk and aged for 75 days. An Emmi Roth promotion just before the last holiday season met with great response, since the trumpet flower-shaped curls in which it’s traditionally served, in combination with a slightly funky aroma and a memorably tangy flavor with a long finish, make a wonderful holiday presentation.
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Like Red Clay Gourmet, V&V Supremo Foods, Inc. is also looking to spread a cheese tradition from one part of America to another. V&V Supremo offers Mexican-style cheese made in Wisconsin. The company is the oldest producer of Hispanic cheeses in the U.S. It’s been making cheeses in Chicago since 1964, but is now making cheese both in that original Chicago plant and in Wisconsin, where there’s an available supply of milk that’s suitable for the needs of these cheeses, according to National Accounts Manager Patrick Jacobo. “It’s all about the milk,” he said.
V&V Supremo’s Oaxaca Cheese is a pasta filata-style cheese, the Mexican version of a mozzarella, with a stringy texture that results from gently stretching the curd as it’s made. It was a World Championship of Cheese winner in 2016. V&V Supremo’s Chihuahua Cheese was a World Championship of Cheese winner in 2014. Like the Oaxaca cheese, it’s a melting cheese, traditionally used to make quesadillas. Over the past decade or so, it’s selling well in the foodservice market, as Americans have become more interested in using authentic ingredients for their quesadillas, Jacobo said. The product, already popular among chefs, is now available at retail for people to use at home.
Los Pacos is another brand bringing the flavors of Oaxaca to the United States with its mole sauces that represent the height of Oaxacan haute cuisine. The company makes a total of seven artisanal mole sauces that come from one of the top restaurants in Oaxaca. Ingredients for the complex sauces are sourced from organic farmers and local indigenous farmers. Those ingredients may be fried, baked or smoked before they’re brought together with other fresh ingredients and ground in stone grinders several times before they’re slow cooked for hours in copper pots over a low fire. The Los Pacos sauces include Oaxacan Black Mole, which features the flavor of the chilhuacle chile along with more than 30 other ingredients, and Oaxacan Red Chile, which is flavored with more than 20 ingredients whose subtle sweetness is enhanced by chocolate, bananas and almonds. Other varieties include Oaxacan Chichilo Pepper Mole, a bitter mole traditionally served at funerals to symbolize the bitterness of losing a loved one; Oaxacan Yellow Mole, which has a strong herbal taste with cinnamon and garlic notes; and Oaxacan Green Mole, which features the jalapeno pepper along with herbal flavors from epazote, parsley and yerba santa. The Los Pacos mole sauces are sold in 1-pound pouches and jars, with foodservice packaging available on request. Retailers who wish to inquire may contact importer Mariela Oetinger, President of Vaca Jump Brokers. U.S. distribution is from Laredo, Texas, and foodservice packaging is available on request.
The Setton Farms family didn’t have to travel far from their California homes to bring Dark Chocolate Pistachios to the Winter Fancy Food Show. Also, the new Blueberry Coconut Pistachio Chewy Bites extend the line that started with Pistachio + Cranberries Pistachio Chewy Bites. A third flavor, Plum + Lemon Pistachio Chewy Bites, will be coming out this spring. The Dark Chocolate Pistachios are packaged in 5-ounce bags that retail for around $4.99, while the Pistachio Chewy Bites are individually wrapped to sell from a shipper display for about $1 each.
KL Keller Foodways has gone farther afield to bring Yandilla Mustard Seed Oil from the countryside around Wallendbeen, Australia, into the American market for consumers who want bright flavors and high quality. Yandilla Mustard Seed Oil won a 2017 bronze sofi Award and is the only edible mustard seed oil that’s authorized for import into the U.S. under U.S. Department of Agriculture regulations. The Yandilla oil, made by Farmer Vivian Weatherall, is cold pressed in small batches. It has a high smoke point, so it can be used for high heat applications, and it has a spicy bite of flavor that translates into foods fried in it. It’s low in saturated fat.
Sweet New Look for Local Hive Honey
By Lorrie Baumann
Sometimes, it’s just true that the more things change, the more they stay the same. Rice’s Honey is proving that old saying even as the company departs from its long-standing brands in the marketplace, L.R. Rice and Rice Family Honey, in favor of a new brand that reflects another aspect of what the company has always stood for, Local Hive. The change was intended to communicate more immediately to shoppers the difference between this product and other honeys on the same grocery store shelf, said Tony Landretti, Rice’s Honey CEO.
“The rebranding effort is to bring forward what we do: local honey. When shoppers are standing at the grocery store shelf, we wanted the first thing people to see is ‘local,’ and then for them to pick up and look at the label to learn more about the product; for example, seeing the floral notes that make up the honey,” he said. “We wanted to create a point of differentiation on shelf.”
Rice’s Honey specializes in raw, unfiltered honey, as it has through four generations since the company was founded in 1924 by L.R. Rice, the great-grandfather of Scott Rice, who today buys all the honey for the company. The company produces 16 honeys that are specific to different areas in the U.S. and another three that emphasize other attributes: Amber, Clover and Wildflower. The 16 local variants reflect the floral sources that are prevalent in each region. Colorado Honey, for instance, has floral notes from alfalfa, clover and wildflowers, while So Cal has notes from citrus, sage and berries as well as alfalfa and clover.
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The honey is sourced from more than 150 local beekeepers across the country through relationships that have often survived from one generation to the next, Landretti says. The honey collected by the beekeepers is tested on-site to validate quality and consistency and then shipped to Greeley, Colorado, where it’s packed and labeled for retail sale as pure, raw, unfiltered honey that retains all of its natural nutrients. “Bees travel. We validate what the beekeepers are saying before we bring it here — with every single load we buy,” Landretti says. “It’s honey from your backyard. Transparency in food is important. People want to know where their food is coming from. It’s local honey that’s from closer to home than a lot of the processed honey sold that you can’t identify where it is from.”
In conjunction with the rebranding, the company also has a new website at www.localhivehoney.com the provides consumers a way to engage with some of the beekeepers who provide the Local Hive honey, tips for starting a backyard beehive and information about the company’s partnership with Butterfly Pavilion’s Pollinator Awareness through Conservation and Education program. A portion of the proceeds from every bottle of Local Hive Honey sold goes to support the PACE program. “We’re trying to bring all this to life through our brand refresh and bringing it to shoppers across the country,” Landretti says.
The site also highlights the company’s heritage and four generations of involvement in beekeeping and honey packing. Landretti himself is the new kid on the block. He joined the company in late 2013 after a career in consumer packaged goods that included various executive positions with Quaker Oats, Campbell Soup and Pinnacle Foods. He’s known the Rice family ever since he met his wife Carol, who grew up across the street from them, so when the family needed some help with the business, they reached out to their old friend to join their hive. “As I continued to get more involved in the business, we started working collectively as a team to drive the business,” Landretti says. “The family is still involved, with Scott Rice doing all the honey buying and Mike Lordemann, Julie Rice’s husband, running the manufacturing facility.”
Creative Chill from Coolhaus
By Lorrie Baumann
Premium ice cream brand Coolhaus is getting set for summer with the launch of seven new ice cream flavors and three new ice cream sandwich varieties this year at Natural Products Expo West. The new ice cream flavors will be available in pints and include Milkshake & Fries, Street Cart Churro Dough, Midnight Munchies, Farmers Market Strawberry Cheesecake, Buttered French Toast, Chocolate Love and Best of Both Worlds Vanilla.
The three new ice cream sandwich varieties are That Dough Though Ice Cream Sammie, Gimme S’mores Ice Cream Sammie and Birthday Cake Ice Cream Sammie. That Dough Though combines chewy chocolate chip cookies and cookie dough ice cream, Gimme S’mores combines graham chocolate chip cookies and marshmallow graham ice cream, and Birthday Cake offers a sugar cookie with sprinkles and cupcake frosting ice cream.
The flavors as well as their names represent the women-owned company’s philosophy of having fun and being creative while also standing up for the quality of their super-premium ice cream. “We take what we do seriously, but we don’t take ourselves seriously,” says CEO and co-Founder Natasha Case. “We really also like to use design for storytelling and expressing our values. … We’re always, always making sure that our message is being heard by our consumers, that we’re creating this top-notch brand for them.”
Just to give a couple more examples of the kind of creativity sparked by that intention, Coolhaus’ Milkshake & Fries Ice Cream offers salted Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream with shoestring french fries and milk chocolate malt balls, while Midnight Munchies offers chocolate peanut butter ice cream with chocolate-covered pretzels and peanut butter cups. Buttered French Toast Ice Cream, which suggests the possibility of either having dessert for breakfast or having breakfast for dessert, offers a combination of buttered brown sugar ice cream with pecan pralines, cakey toast pieces and a maple swirl.
All this started when Case and co-Founder Freya Estreller met and discovered that they shared interests in both architecture and ice cream. Case’s background is in architecture and design, while Estreller had a background in real estate development. The two of them started baking cookies that they built into ice cream sandwiches that they saw as a kind of edible architecture. “I love that it [ice cream] is a canvas for all these great flavors. It’s the ultimate kind of nostalgic comfort food,” Case says. “It’s good for kids, good for adults, and when you combine it with the cookies, it opens up even more flavor possibilities. The combination of the two always spoke to me.”
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Once they’d come up with some ice cream sandwiches that they named after the architects and architectural movements that inspired them, they began working on how to go commercial with their concept. “We started the business and fell in love and decided that the best way to get the product to market was with a food truck,” Case says.
A food truck in California in 2009 inspired a 2011 food truck in New York City. “We’re an L.A.-born and raised brand. This is definitely home turf, and I love the way that L.A. has become this food destination,” Case says. “New York was an obvious extension because of the connection between the two large cities. We had clients in New York who would book us for L.A. activities.” Then friends who were also former architects reached out and asked the pair to bring their brand to Texas, and in 2012, they opened a food truck in Dallas. They decided that next they’d explore other channels, and now they also operate two scoop shops in California, one in Old Town Pasadena and the other in Culver City, which offers the advantage of being central to southern California’s entertainment industry, Case says. “Culver City we really liked because it’s really central. There’s a rich history of arts and entertainment with studios there,” she says. “We felt it was a neighborhood that was on its way to up and coming. We like to be pioneers and bring the elevated brands to a space and be a leader, and that’s exactly what’s happening in Culver City.” Coolhaus has continued to grow and currently includes a fleet of nine trucks and carts, three scoop shops and the wholesale distribution in more than 6,000 retailers nationwide that’s now the biggest part of the business.
All the way along, it’s been important to the pair to emphasize that their brand is owned by women, and this year at Natural Products Expo West, they were promoting the #iBuyWomenOwned hashtag as a way of bringing awareness to women-owned businesses. That message is catching on among female celebrities, and Case sees it as the foundation of a movement in the making. “We’re definitely making not only our L.A. identity but being a women-owned brand a big part of our messaging,” she says. “It’s just important to lead by example. Women are the majority of the consumers, especially in the ice cream space, and it’s important to lead by example and create the opportunities.”
The new flavors offered in pints are the company’s most recent addition to its line, but Case has even more ambitious plans in the offing. Later this year, the company will offer four holiday flavors in pints: Brown Butter Gingerbread, Spiked Eggnog, Pumpkin Pie Cheesecake and Chocolate Peppermint Animal Cookies. Another seven flavors in pints will be coming out next year, although Case isn’t ready yet to reveal what those will be, and a whole nondairy line will also be coming out 2019, she says.
“It’s exciting that as you grow, you can introduce yourself as being more and more unique instead of diluting yourself,” Case says. “We’re more confident of our identity as we get bigger, so we’re able to be more and more unique, which is really exciting.”