By Lorrie Baumann
Alex Borgo has joined Fiscalini Cheese as its new Head Cheesemaker. Borgo succeeds Mariano Gonzalez, who has moved on to become the Head Cheesemaker at Grafton Village Cheese in Vermont. Borgo came to Fiscalini Cheese, which specializes in aged cheeses and the company’s internationally renowned Clothbound Cheddar, all made with milk from the California company’s dairy herd, from Marin French Cheese, which specializes in soft-ripened cheese made in the French tradition. Although Borgo will have to make some adjustments in his thinking to adapt to the Fiscalini cheeses, he doesn’t anticipate that he’ll have much difficulty with that, he said. “I’ve been in the business for a long time,” he said. “I’ve been in this business for a very long time, and I know what I’m capable of and what I can bring to the table.”
Previous to his employment at Marin French Cheese, Borgo worked as a fifth-generation cheesemaker in his family’s business in Canada. “I started making cheese when I was 10,” he said. “I started making brie when I was 18…. My dad has some aged cheeses, and the process we do in vats here – even mozzarella – is similar, although with different cultures and different temperatures. I’m not walking into something blind.”
From there, he pursued a career playing baseball, and then upon his return to the family business, went to study cheesemaking in Europe, where he met Marin French Cheese’s previous owner, who recruited him to come and work in California. He stayed there for 11 years before moving on to Fiscalini upon Gonzalez’s departure.
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She doesn’t have any qualms about Borgo’s ability to carry on the standards of cheesemaking excellence set by Gonzalez, whose Fiscalini Bandage-Wrapped Cheddar has three times been named the world’s best cheddar at the World Cheese Awards and is the only American cheddar to win the award. “Our small team of cheesemakers has over 20 years combined experience with Fiscalini,” she said. “We are confident we will be able to continue crafting and aging our award-winning products without complication.”
Fiscalini Cheese produces a signature line of three raw milk cheese varieties made in wheel form, ranging from 30 to 60 pounds. Those include Bandage-Wrapped Cheddar, which is aged for 14 months; San Joaquin Gold, which is a hard Italian-style cheese aged 12 months; and Lionza, a Swiss Alpine-style cheese aged for six months. The company also makes a traditional mild block cheddar and a variety of flavored cheddars. “Mariano Gonzalez helped to develop all these cheeses and put us on the map, and for that we are very grateful,” Genasci said.
For the future, in addition to the possibility of moving into cheeses similar to the soft-ripened varieties with which Borgo has recent experience, Fiscalini Cheese is also looking at the possibility of developing other products to use more of the milk produced by the company’s 1,500 dairy cows. The company currently uses about 10 percent of its milk to make its cheeses and sells the other 90 percent to a local milk processor. “There is plenty of opportunity in not only the cheese category, but in the broader dairy category,” Genasci said. “Sky is the limit!”